eBook ë ePub Into Thin Air A Personal Account of the Mt Everest Disaster ê 9780385494786 Free

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eBook ë ePub Into Thin Air A Personal Account of the Mt Everest Disaster ê 9780385494786 Free õ A bank of clouds was assembling on the not so distant horizon but journalist mountaineer Jon Krakauer standing on the summit of Mt Everest saw nothing that suggested that a murderouLuding Krakauer's in guilt ridden disarray would also provide the impetus for Into Thin Air Krakauer's epic account of the May 1996 disast “The sort of individual who is programmed to ignore personal distress and keep pushing for the top is freuently programmed to disregard signs of grave and imminent danger as well This forms the nub of a dilemma that every Everest climber eventually comes up against in order to succeed you must be exceedingly driven but if you’re too driven you’re likely to die Above 26000 feet over the line between appropriate zeal and reckless summit fever becomes grievously thin Thus the slopes of Everest are littered with corpses” Jon Krakauer Into Thin Air On June 8 1924 the first great challenger to Mount Everest George Leigh Mallory – along with partner Andrew Irvine – made a fateful attempt to summit the tallest mountain in the world Expedition member Noel Odell who was following in support watched their progress from the safety of camp In a “sudden clearing of the atmosphere” Odell reported Mallory and Irvine appeared as two “tiny black spots” moving toward a “great rock step” He saw them only for a moment before the clouds came in obscuring Mallory’s blind march into legend Neither Mallory or Irvine returned In the years since Everest has not grown forgiving If you happen to reach the summit you are at the approximate cruising altitude of a commercial jet liner The air is so thin that you are literally dying That combined with moody weather changes and the typical challenges of mountaineering makes for a dangerous deadly environment Everest is so unforgiving that the bodies of her would be conuerors – such as the ill fortuned “Green Boots” – often remain on her slopes for years becoming macabre landmarks Despite this frightful reputation the toll of May 10 11 1996 manages to stand out Five people – including two experienced guides – lost their lives after ignoring their own turnaround times and getting caught in a sudden storm The cluster of deaths would have made news by itself It just so happened however that one of the surviving climbers was Jon Krakauer an adventurer and journalist on assignment for Outside magazine Krakauer eventually wrote an article about his experiences though it was a far cry from the report on Everest’s commercialization that he had originally intended Ultimately he returned to his article and reshaped it into a book Into Thin Air In the years since its publication Into Thin Air has come to be recognized as a classic of outdoor writing despite the counter publications written by other participants disagreeing with every single one of Krakauer’s words Leaving aside the controversies – which swirl around the disaster like the spindrift off the peak of Everest – Into Thin Air is deserving of its lofty reputation Unlike a lot of first person memoirs churned out in the wake of disaster or trauma Into Thin Air is the product of a man with a gift for writing Krakauer may have thought of himself as a climber who got into journalism but he is a natural storyteller and his prose wonderfully evokes the beauties and terrors of the mountainside In terms of conjuring place of putting you there with the climbers – whether that is the sualor of a filthy lodge in Lobuje the vertiginous seracs of the Icefall or the top of the world itself – Krakauer succeeds at describing the indescribable At less than three hundred pages Into Thin Air is compact and briskly paced Krakauer indulges a brief – and fascinating – history of mountaineering on Everest before recounting his experiences as a member of Rob Hall’s Adventure Consultants expedition Most of the time Krakauer stays within his own experiences He tells you what he saw what he heard and his impressions of the other climbers owing to the fact that he wrote this with the wounds still raw and weeping he is extremely careful in his presentations The only time Krakauer leaves the first person perspective is to piece together what happened to those who died while he was not present Krakauer was one of the first to summit Everest on May 10 1996 and made it back to camp before the dying started in earnest Typically I am wary of memoirs since they are usually a vehicle for self promotion or self defense Krakauer struggles a bit with being both journalist and participant of both reporting the action and being part of it For the most part though he strikes a good balance He points out instances where bad decisions were made – Hall’s failure to abide by his turnaround time for instance – but he does not reach a verdict or even issue an indictment Indeed Krakauer reserves his harshest words for himself and a hypoxia induced mistake he made that contributed to the death of one of the climbers To the extent that Krakauer provides a theory of the disaster he attributes it to the crowds with multiple expeditions trying to reach the summit during the same good weather window This led to traffic jams that turned the fixed ropes up the mountain into a Himalayan version of a Costco checkout line during a pandemic One of the most gripping anxious scenes in the book is Krakauer’s descent as he has to wait for a slow moving group to ascend the Hillary Step while his bottled oxygen runs out There is a saying that the first guy through the door always gets hit Because Into Thin Air came out so uickly and grew so popular it immediately became a target for those who felt slighted or disrespected in Krakauer’s telling For instance the famed mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev felt compelled to pen – with a cowriter – his own account of the catastrophe after Krakauer tepidly chided Boukreev for attempting to summit without supplemental oxygen while acting as a guide Krakauer also thoroughly describes Boukreev’s near superhuman attempts to save the lives of climbers caught in the storm so it’s not like he had a vendettaWith the passage of so much time I have absolutely zero interest in parsing all the different accounts of trying to keep track of the directions all the fingers are pointing I don’t believe it serves much of a purpose This isn’t like a plane crash or a train accident where reverse engineering the calamity might save other lives in the future You can’t make Everest safer because it is Everest When you get near the top you are subject to hypoxia which hits everyone differently and can strike down even the most veteran climber It’s tough to blame anyone for an error in judgment when they can’t breathe when they can’t think when they are dying To say this event was a tragedy reuires some modification If this was a tragedy it was of the high tax bracket entirely avoidable variety To make a supported climb on Everest reuires a chunk of change that is uite a bit higher than the median income in the United States Dying on Everest – unless you are a Sherpa – is a privilege few can affordTo not only risk your life but to pay handsomely for the opportunity is partly an ego trip Yet it is impossible not to stand a bit in awe of those who make the attempt As Krakauer points out the summit becomes an obsession for many one that cannot simply be explained away as a premeditated lunge for the best cocktail party story ever There is something mysterious in a person who insists on trudging past the deadline who – like Mallory in 1924 – refuses to simply turn on their heels and return home and instead keeps reaching for the apex as time and breath wind down to nothing There is a cost to Everest that Krakauer aptly shows cannot be translated into hard currency There is a knowledge that – as a member of Mallory’s expedition later wrote – “the price of life is death and that so long as the payment be promptly made it matters little to the individual when the payment is made”

Jon Krakauer Ü Into Thin Air A Personal Account of the Mt Everest Disaster doc

Saw nothing that suggested that a murderous storm was bearing down He was wrong The storm which claimed five lives and left countless inc Into Thin Air or Injustice of many kinds on the MountainUntil almost the end this book was exactly as I expected it to be with just one exception It was the story of a journalist climbing Mount Everest both as a journalist and as a mountaineer Ideal getting paid to do your hobby It was interesting because Krakauer is a damn good writer and because its fascinating to see the details of how the mountain is climbed It's also disappointing because few individuals do it by themselves without a major support like the guy who bicycled all the way around Europe to Nepal and then climbed the mountain alone I would have liked to have read his story but it was only alluded to in the book I later read his book Ultimate High My Everest Odyssey For everyone else its a package tour for the fit and not necessarily experienced who want to climb Everest and have an awful lot of spare cash Transport is arranged tents are set up luggage is carried there will be steaming hot tea awaiting the climbers on their return to their tents after an expedition and if they really can't climb well they can be short roped and pulled up Short roped is the climber roping themselves with a less than one metre rope to the waist of the would be climber and literally hauling them up Still even with all this portering and pampering I was surprised that the first climbers of the season using last year's ropes fitted ropes up Everest so that the climbers didn't have to set their own More than that the really difficult bits got ladders installed But no matter how many shortcuts and easements they are able to achieve there are two things that can neither be predicted nor controlled One is altitude sickness which in some forms can kill very uickly and in others causes mental delusions that led one of the team to his death And the other is the weather 15 climbers died the year Krakauer climbedAt the beginning of this review I mentioned there was one exception to my expectations for this book based on several books I have read by this author The exception was one extraordinary chapter full of the most vituperative nastiness against a socialite climber I didn't know why it was there He didn't get any nicer towards her as the book progressed either but then he said that when he was writing the book he had a 75 minute phone conversation with her Either she didn't know what he'd written I would never bother wasting time on someone who had that little respect for me and intended to tell the world or he didn't write it until after the phone conversation My only reaction to the chapter was thinking that the author was such a damn bitchThe last chapter was tremendously interesting Krakauer had not had much respect for another of the climbers the guide and tour leader Anatoli Boukreev He felt that Boukreev was fulfilling his own ambitions of climbing than in sticking to his job of helping others to climb and looking after their safety Boukreev wrote his own book saying that Krakauer had not mentioned certain incidents somewhat detrimental to himself and that he had made some observational errors either through oxygen deprivation or wilfullness and gave his own version of the climb This argy bargy went back and forth in print and on tv and this chapter is Krakauer defending himself Sadly Boukreev a climber par excellence was buried under an avalanche on Annapurna the following year in 1997 so we will never get to hear what he thought of Krakauer's defenceThe book is worth reading because the Sherpas have always been sidelined in stories of climbing Everest As if it is somehow praiseworthy for a White man to climb the mountain and its nothing really for the Sherpas who can just hop up and down like monkeys carrying all the loads while the white man Climbs This book sets the record straight The mountain could not be the business it is without the Sherpas The tour companies and guides have enormous respect for these men and their abilities and form as firm friendships with them as they do with anyone else in their lives Its a shame that this respect doesn't extend to paying them than the one tenth they earn compared to the tour guides but of course its justified in the traditional way this is local wages this is a lot of money for the locals the locals don't need the things the guides from America Australia etc do Oh YAWN I've heard it all before Why can't people just put their money where their mouth is You can't pay bills and put your kids through school on respect Reduced by 1 star to four stars because of this Rewritten 7 May 2020 due to Covid 19 boredom finding the book and skimming through it

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Into Thin Air A Personal Account of the Mt Everest DisasterA bank of clouds was assembling on the not so distant horizon but journalist mountaineer Jon Krakauer standing on the summit of Mt Everest Life got you down? Then join us on a guided expedition led by Capital Idiocy Inc as we climb to The Summit of MOUNT EVEREST For the bargain price of 650001 we will take you on the adventure of a lifetime full of scenic views2 camaraderie3 and athleticism4 Worried that you lack the necessary climbing experience? Don’t be discouraged5 While Mount Everest is the tallest mountain in the world it is not the most technically challenging climb And in addition to our expertise and mentorship we will have the support of the local populace the Sherpa to handle the basic logistical arrangements so that you can focus on the prize6 Never been above sea level? Don’t sweat it We will prepare you for the high altitudes with our carefully developed Acclimatization Program7 Sensitive to the cold?We have you coveredwith the best protective clothing available8When the time is right9 we’ll organize the final push to the summit where you will enjoy the exhilaration of being the Kingueen of the world10Remember your safety and health are our top priority11What are you waiting for? There is limited space Call us today at 1 800 YOU DEAD to sign up12 1 Does not include airfare to Nepal and subseuent FedEx expenses when we return your personal belongings to your grieving spouse in insert idyllic American town here2 Just avert your eyes from the dead bodies along the trail They have been there for years Honestly after the first one you won’t notice them any 3 Well most of the people are great Some of them suck big timewhen it matters most too They’ll pass you over for dead THREE TIMES before they put some effort into helping you4 Just kidding We’ll provide bottled oxygen at the higher altitudes 5 Seriously zero experience is reuired We’ll take anyone6 That’s an understatement We would be screwed without these guys They cook carry the heaviest loads and lay out the ropes Essentially they take care of the most dangerous tasks for a fraction of what we pay our Western guides Plus they always have a delicious steaming cup of tea ready when you reach your tent7 It really is a good program But you can never be 100% sure how high altitude will affect individuals We’ll do our best to help if you develop High Altitude Cerebral Edema HACE where your brain starts leaking fluids but remember at the top of a mountain there is only so much we can do And again that’s not much8 But it’s still damn cold up there And if a storm hits and you cannot find your way back to camp? Oh boy Get ready for a windchill exceeding 100 below zero And frostbite Lots of frostbite Plus what good is all that gear when people keep losing their mittens and we find the deceased half stripped?9 Did you not read the previous footnote? Storms They can come out of nowhere 10 For a few minutes at least Plus we use the verb “enjoy” loosely You won’t have slept or eaten properly for days You’ll be physically spent And with your severely handicapped mental capabilities you may not even realize where you are Heck you may not even be at the top in actuality Some losers mistakenly thought they’d reached the top and placed all their trinket flags They were off by a good 500 feet Plus they died on the way down Double losers11 Now that’s just a lie Our number one priority is getting you to the summit no matter the risks Otherwise you’ll run home and whine that we turned you around 200 feet from the top You won’t think to thank us that you are alive to do said whining And you’ll hurt business Plus it’s hard as hell to keep you safe up there and you won’t be one uota of help And health? Ha You can hardly hold us accountable for the intestinal parasites you’ll contract in that camp where everyone shits in the open12 Having second thoughts? Look why don’t you read Into Thin Air instead? You can read it at home in your bed safe and warm The author that crazy guy already climbed Mount Everest for you He reminds me of travel writer Bill Bryson with his accessible factual and tension filled writing minus the humor Because climbing Mount Everest is not funny Vicariously that’s the only way I recommend climbing this one